An insight on my work and thoughts as head cutter at Swedish bespoke tailors A.W.Bauer&Co /By Frederik Andersen
Friday, December 21, 2012
Thursday, December 20, 2012
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
Make it a double
The idea was to make a blazer that would fit to any occasion. From a rainy tuesday to at the office in Stockholm to a hip saturday night cocktail party in Tokyo. So basically we took the look and all the details we are in love with at the moment and mixed it all.
We ended up with a 10oz black hopsack, clean cut scandinavian Blazer. The sharp edges of the double breasted silhouette was softened by the the rounded patch pockets and the slanting cut to the chest which is one of our signature cuts .
bespoke tailors a.w.bauer
Thursday, November 29, 2012
Back in the days
The trouble is that we have a lot of books and once I start reading I loose track of time and drift away .
I get so much inspiration from that period of time. Not only the sharp fit of the jackets but also the confidence and attitude.
Up till the the early 1960´s A.W.Bauer & Co and other tailors bought fabrics only twice a year , spring and fall. To keep track of the of fabrics in ( and out ) of stock , a piece of every cloth was cut and glued into a book .
Every cloth got a number and there was kept a record of which customers who ordered it and when .
Then there is books with the accounts . This one is dated 1880, from a time where handwriting seemed to be a full time profession and a piece of art in it self .
This is a 100 years old picture of the A.W.Bauer & Co tailor shop
Visiting the shop today you will find that the clock on the wall,the picture ,the arm chairs and the table with the fabrics are still a part of the interior .
I managed to find the the records and measures of the previous owner of the suit, but ufortunaly I was not able to locate the files on the specific suit and fabric.
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
Thursday, November 22, 2012
Monday, November 19, 2012
Sweet combination
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Letter from Seatlle
To whom it may concern,
I just came across an old suit of yours in a thrift store in Seattle, WA, USA. It is dated February 27, 1945 with the name G. Challis. The tag also has the number 3342. The material and craftsmanship are still in very good condition. The pants are much to long and baggy, although the waist fits nicely, the suit coat is very square with large shoulder pads. My plan is to have it tailored to fit. However, I first wanted to ask if there is anything more you could tell me about the suit and to let you know that almost 70 years later, your work is still looking sharp!
Kindest Regards,
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Work in progress
Making the pattern |
Charking the cloth |
The pieces are coming together |
First fitting |
Ripped apart, pressing the edges |
Ready for new chark lines |
Placing the patch pocket |
Shaping the pocket |
Basting the facing of the lapels |
Horsehair canvas shaped chest |
Basting the front edges |
Hand stitching the edges |
All lining is being hand stitched in the blazer |
Soft shoulders , no padding |
The Blazer is now ready for fitting no.2 |
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